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Lest We Forget, Part II

3/9/2016

Fredericksburg TX is noted for its German heritage and one of its favorite sons was Admiral Chester Nimitz, the chief naval commander in the Pacific theater in WWII. So it is fitting that one of the must sees in town is the National Museum of the War in the Pacific. It is well worth a visit of several hours. Since the museum starts with the cultural clashes between Asian and the West in the 19th century and then covers every main conflict of the Pacific war, the amount of information is staggering.

One of the tragic causes of all this conflict that surfaces again and again is the vast amount of prejudice and jingoism--not just Germany, Italy, and Japan but also Britain, China, Korea, France, Russia and, yes, the United States. China, Japan, and Korea all considered themselves far superior to other cultures at one time or another; Great Britain and other Europeans colonized other people without limit and forced their religion and culture on others as part of the "White Man's Burden"; the United states had its own "Manifest Destiny" to control most of North America. The museum stresses over and over that racial and ethnic cleansing never leads to anything good.

There is a small area commemorating the five Sullivan brothers from Iowa. A bomb casing like the one used on Nagasaki centers the exhibit on the end of the war. There are many stations where one can listen to personal experiences from veterans. A courtyard pays tribute to the ten American Presidents who participated in some way in World War II. See if you can name them. A beautiful Japanese garden is also on the grounds, a gift from the people of Japan. All in all, this is a very impressive place.

On a lighter note, we enjoyed lunch at the Fredericksburg Brewing Company and later in the afternoon visited one of the 55 or so wineries along Highway 290.

Shower report: the Ladybird Johnson Campground has very nice showers, including three hooks in each. Today we head west again to Ft. Stockton for one night and then on up into New Mexico.

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Another Day with LBJ

3/8/2016

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We drove to Fredericksburg, TX, yesterday under threatening clouds and set up in a little intermittent drizzle at the campground at Ladybird Johnson Municipal Park and Golf Course. I didn't even know Ladybird played golf. Anyway, despite threats, we made it through the day without heavy rain. With the afternoon open we decided to take in LBJ's ranch and 'western White House' about 16 miles away. Half of the site is a state park, including a living history farm and half national park with the Johnson Ranch.

This was a very interesting trip and well worth our $3 admission. The volunteer guide was excellent. President Johnson spent about one-fourth of his Presidency at this home, but what comes through more than anything is the man's incredible work ethic. A 400-year old live oak in front of the house is known as the Cabinet Oak for the meetings of state that Johnson held there.

Since the airstrip, even after improvements, would not allow for the landing of the 707 then used as Air Force One, a smaller Lockheed Jetstar was used to ferry staffers and dignitaries to the home and is on display. The house had 72 phone lines installed to facilitate the business of state and the communications center behind the house is a conglomeration of trailers and steel buildings. Also on display are Johnson's fleet of cars, including an all-terrain hunting car and an amphibious car, that he delighted in driving guests about the ranch.

This morning the promised rain has arrived but looks like it may not be all day. On our plans for today are the National Museum of the Pacific War and a further look around Fredericksburg. The brochures promise 31 wineries but we may not get to them all.

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Another Sunday, Another Presidential Library

3/7/2016

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I will have to admit that Texas has more of some things than Iowa--more people, more land (although not better land), and certainly more presidential libraries. So yesterday, we braved more traffic and trundled up to Austin to the LBJ Library and Museum. Like the others we have been to, it is a very impressive place and a peephole into the events that formed the man.

Lyndon Johnson developed his political career during our growing up years and became president one month after we were married so in a sense he was the first president of our adulthood. In retrospect, it's easy to forget his achievements in the shadow of the Vietnam War, but displays at the museum remind the viewer of the Great Society programs, most of which still affect our lives today. Exhibits are on the first two floors and the tenth floor; in between are the archives. Each library contains millions of pages of material and records pertaining to that presidency. At the LBJ, some of those archives are visible as you climb the grand staircase.

Besides exhibits about civil rights, war protests, head start, the humanities, Medicare, and other social programs, there are personal glimpses into the family life and especially the famous LBJ humor. You can pick up a phone in several spots and listen in to conversations with Robert Kennedy, Lady Bird, or the gravelly-voiced Everett Dirksen of Illinois.

It looks like an end to our general run of nice weather. Today we will head west into the hill country to Fredericksburg. I get the impression it's sort of the Texas version of the Amana Colonies. We shall see. The forecast for the next few days contains some of those bad words like "hail" and "strong winds."

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Rollio, San Antonio

3/6/2016

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One more sign comment here at Canyon Trail: The shower house has three nice private restrooms, each with a shower. Only one is currently out of order. Anyway, I had to chuckle at the sign on one wall that said Love is Patient, Love is Kind and on the other one warning users that they would shut the place down if people didn't clean up after themselves. Sort of like having a parent in charge.

Anyway, after checking the forecast, we decided yesterday would be the best day to take in the River Walk in San Antonio. First we had to wait in line almost half an hour at a little machine to get a $20 parking permit. We've camped for less than that with full hookups. We then passed through the Alamo historical site. This doesn't do much for me since Texas independence was actually won in Sam Houston's 18-minute victory at San Jacinto and no one at the time thought trying to hold the Alamo was a very good idea. But since Walt Disney took over American history, accuracy pretty much has gone out the window. Enough of that soapbox.

Most of the River Walk was extremely crowded. I think there were probably some pretty sites to look at if you could stop long enough to do so. I believe that this is the start of spring break in many Texas schools which might explain the crowds. We did have lunch outside at Durty Nelly's, because we have fond memories of a pub by the same name in Ireland which we returned to several times in the same night, trying to clarify directions back to our B & B.

By that time it was mid-afternoon, and after a stop at the information bureau, we headed to see one of the missions that helped found San Antonio. This one was the mission of San Jose, with a nice National Park Visitor Center. According to the information, four of the five missions are still active parishes. The church exemplifies a lovely blend of the European and indigenous cultures. We made a brief stop also at the Mission San Juan but it was closing time and mass was starting in the church.

We stopped for supper at a restaurant in Groene and just ordered appetizers since lunch wasn't that distant. By the time we got back here, we were very ready to take off our shoes.

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Signs, Signs, Everywhere a Sign...

3/5/2016

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We've moved from Midway Park, a COE campground in Waco, to Canyon Trail, a private campground south of San Marcos. We plan to use this as a jumping off place to San Antonio and Austin.

But before I leave Midway mentally, I need to alter my rating of the shower house there. It wasn't very good. There were two hooks but not much else that could be said. The hand drier was broken and no soap. The mirror above the sink was gone and written in magic marker where it should be are the words "Don't worry-your beautiful!!" (Not my spelling.) A very battered "Out of Order" sign decorates the door of one of the toilet stalls. Fortunately we had full hookups at our site.

Things are in better shape here but that doesn't mean there are aren't any signs. Private campgrounds tend to have more rules (and no grills or firepits!) We went to the 'Club House' when we arrived to avail ourselves of the laundry facilities. First of all, there is a code to get in the door. Then on the wall of the laundry room is a thermostat with a sign NOT to adjust it below 78 degrees because "the unit freezes up." Okay, fine, but the whole thing is encased in a locked plastic case--I'm not sure the NSA could adjust it.

Above the commercial washers are signs about what can't be washed in them (rugs and bedding) and what can be (3 pairs of jeans and 4 shirts.) Above the dryers are similar signs except only heavy bedding is prohibited. A dilemma for me. I needed to wash sheets so did the sign mean that I couldn't wash them in the washers but I could dry them in the dryer? A conundrum. And they never said whether you could wash or dry underwear.

Many campgrounds have little lending libraries and, if so, I usually donate one of my books. So I asked at the office, and she said, yes, they have shelves of books in the 'Club Room' at the clubhouse. But she would take the book because they keep that room locked unless there is a rally going on here. No signs explaining all of that.

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Waltz Across Waco

3/4/2016

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Finally saw a bear--a Baylor Bear at the entrance to the Baylor Club at the top of the McClane Stadium. High school friends Bill and Linda Jensen graciously took us to lunch yesterday on a beautiful day. Bill is a retired Baylor professor. It was great to visit with them and exchange tales of our travels. After stuffing ourselves, we took advantage of the views (I of course stayed back a ways from the windows) and then got a tour of the Baylor campus.

They then led us to Indian Spring Park and the suspension bridge across the Brazos originally built in 1869 partly to facilitate the cattle drives. Impressive bronze sculptures illustrate that crucial bit of Western commerce. We wandered a while, enjoyed the weather, snapped some photos, and managed to make it back to the campground without one u-turn. Yippee!

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Magnolias and Mammoths

3/3/2016

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We feel that it is very fortunate that almost all Texas freeways have U-turn lanes at most exits--for one thing it means we aren't the only people who have trouble navigating. Yesterday, in between U-turns and roads not on our maps, we managed to get to the recently designated Mammoth National Monument for a delightful visit. Twenty-eight mammoths have been found in the area and a new building protects several of the skeletons in situ. The tour was very informative and we highly recommend it.

Next, we wended our way without too many wrong turns to Magnolia Market. We are fans of HGTV's Fixer-Upper and the Market belongs to hosts Chip and Joanna Gaines. The setting is fascinating in an old warehouse next to unused grain bins and is being expanded to include a garden shop and apparently an entertainment stage. The selection of wares, however, was a little disappointing--mainly because the one-of-a-kind repurposed vintage items, which the show's designer is famous for, lose their charm when reproduced in bulk in China. I mean, one wire basket holding a half-dozen antique milk bottle brings to mind my mother bringing in the milk off the front steps in a simpler time; display racks with dozens of such baskets don't. But it was interesting and I think Butch, with an eye to his birthday next week, picked out his present. I hope I don't forget.

The day finished with a more stressful adventure--a search for a grocery store. More u-turns and finally a mega-store which made Columbus' search for the New World a piece of cake compared to finding the dozen items on my list. On the upside, we haven't seen any of the timber rattlers that we were told inhabit this area.

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Wacko in Waco

3/2/2016

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Well, we do some pretty wacko things anywhere but you have to admit as a title, it's difficult to resist. We are at Midway Park, a COE campground on Lake Waco in Texas. Our site has full hookups but was a bit of a trick to get into. The actual pad is fairly level but the entrance is a steep hill so the poor truck had to push the trailer up the hill backwards and there was a lot of wheel spinning--I assume a truck's form of teeth gnashing.

The sites however have nice picnic tables on cement pads with solid, even surrounds. Some even have roofs, although ours does not. At this time of the year it doesn't matter. Once set up we had a nice visit from schoolmates of mine, Bill and Linda; I spent some time listening to the audible version of Bats and Bones, soon to go live; and we grilled some steaks. This is the first time we've cooked outside on this trip. After supper, a short walk finished off a beautiful day.

A few friends have commented that they are on pins and needles wondering about the number of shower hooks in the last few places. The showers here are old and not fancy but there are two hooks. East Fork on Lake Lavon, as I did say, is awful. When they have to encase the "Out of Order" signs in plastic, you know they don't plan to do anything soon. Butch reports that the one hook in the men's shower was broken off. Tyler State Park had individual showers with two hooks and a shelf. Poverty Point had great tile showers with at least two hooks.

We are thinking of checking out the Mammoth National Monument here today and maybe the Texas Rangers museum. (That would not be the sports team.) Looks like an A+ day--wacko or not.

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